Solstice

from the weather page

Hurray - the days will start getting longer now, but the sun isn't melting the snow and the city is running out of ice for the bike paths.  It has been challenging, but our bike handling skills are improving.

The bike path is in the center with the plow tracks, to the right is the sidewalk, which some cyclists have started using because they are in better shape than the paths.

Although today was the darkest day, the sun was shining on the white snow and people seemed cheery as they did their shopping.

Do you see the clothing in the lower left corner of the photo?  The stores have their clothing out all the time and when it rains or snows they put little plastic covers over it.  I understand that, but people stand around smoking and looking at clothing, which strikes me as bad for business.

Candy

Thanks to the generosity of a dinner guest (who didn't even make it to dinner - have I mentioned we have had a lot of snowstorms?), we were all set to make candy.

before

At this time of year there are logs of marzipan of different colors and many kinds of nougat for sale, along with chocolate and decorations.  We used recipes from Odense, the marzipan company, but they were more of assembly instructions.

during

We did not have decorations, but the results still looked good and tasted fantastic.  R. knows what she wants to do for her next party.

after

Field trip

All schools must be close to bus stops or train stations because I see the kids use them and have yet to see a school bus.  The most amazing group of kids (and teachers) I saw were sitting outside in the sub-freezing weather having their picnic lunch.

Today R. and A.'s entire school walked to the cathedral for a Christmas event (not a service, I was told many times) and filled almost all the seats.  Despite that, it was fairly chilly inside because they didn't build it with heating vents, R. pointed out.  A. said they had humongous bells that rang for a long time and were so loud that you could barely hear anybody singing.  They sang in Danish, of course (although the non-religious songs all seem to be in English).  Afterward they went out the gate that had been unveiled by the queen.

I am interested in learning more about the priest's collar.

Fun and games

A. has been a fan of tiddly winks and soccer/football and recently found an entertaining combination called Flick Ball (instead of football).  According to this link it first came out about 45 years ago by Alga, a Swedish toy company.

The little white disk is the soccer ball to be used like a tiddly wink with the feet of the players (held in the hand of the child)

Ta da!

This post is written by someone who has passed her Module 1 Danish test! 

I was quite nervous even though this was only a 10-15 minute oral exam that focused on basics like time, space, family, and hobbies.  We were required to read three beginner-level Danish books and prepare a one-minute book report.  We also had to prepare two one-minute talks about general topics (our everyday life, our family).  From these five speeches one was chosen randomly, the talk was given, and the examiner asked questions (What happened at the end of the book?  What would you do if you were in that situation?  Why was he late?).  Next we were shown a picture and we had to ask questions (Is it fall or spring?  How old is he?  Are they married?  How many people do you see?).  It sounds so easy when I write it now, but it took a lot of preparation.  It definitely helps to practice with the store clerks and afterschool pedagogues, until they lose patience and switch to English.  Our next exam will have a written part and spelling counts!  We are also supposed to be able to have the pitch and rhythm to the language.  I will try not to worry ahead of time.

Saint Lucia

After A.'s class had a 7 a.m. breakfast together (traditional bread, butter, jam, chocolate, and cheese - bring your own coffee) the kids (and only almost no parents) went off to watch the Saint Lucia procession, a tradition started in Denmark in 1944.  Thirty girls wearing white dresses and silver headbands (no red sash) walked in while carrying candles, with two of the girls also wearing a crown of (electric) candles.  Sitting in the dark watching and listening to the girls walk in was moving, but it was a little jarring when they switched to, "We wish you a merry Christmas," in English.  They sang several more songs, both in English and Danish, before some other kids joined in on the keyboard and drums.  On 15/12 the afterschool program will have a similar event and I think that one will involve more sweets.

A library mystery

Downtown is a department store with an enormous set of windows.  Facing the walking/cycling street are the traditional mannequins, but along the breezeway is a series of promotions done by the library.  One window has books about knitting and some yarn, another has travel guides and a map.  One window has this poster, which says, "Fake or facts - sinister, crazy, scary facts from around the world," and in larger green letters says, "Another world."  I get the paper in another language, the aliens, a UFO, but the Cleveland baseball team's logo?  Any ideas?

Still more Christmas

At the Viking Museum the Christmas tree was decorated with many handmade ornaments.

a small Viking ship

cookies usually go in here

woven Christmas hearts are common and often contain nuts and candy

these look a lot like Viking shields

Danish Christmas star

More weather

off to the library and grocery store

Two years ago there was very little snow, but last year was cold enough to allow skating on the fjord and snowy enough to deplete the snow-removal budget and salt stores.  This year has proven even snowier, and it isn't even mid-December.  The good news is that fresh snow covers all the dirt and makes the dark days a little brighter.

the view from the library

Snacks

It doesn't matter that school gets out at random times because parents do not pick up children after school.  Kids about 10-13 years old take themselves to a club off-campus and parents pick them up there.  Older kids hang out with friends or go home to an empty house.  Younger kids go to an afterschool program (SFO - Skolefritidsordning) on campus and parents pick them up later in the afternoon. 

Around 2pm one of the kids goes around and rings a bell announcing that snack is ready.  I am fascinated by the Danish snacks.  Here is a little list -
  1 rice cake, 2 apple slices, 2 orange slices
  1 cracker, butter, and thin slice of chocolate
  roasted potato with side of ketchup
  2 crackers, 2 large slices of cucumber
  pasta with choice of pineapple or tuna fish
  your choice of corn flakes, oat flakes, raisins, and milk
  hot dog in a mini-bun (or just the bun)
  1 piece of chocolate, 1 orange
  applesauce with cream and jam
  SFO-made rolls with butter and jam

Firsts

In the past couple weeks I have seen three firsts, in random order -
    a bumper sticker
    an obese person
    a Subaru station wagon

I have yet to see -
    an umbrella stroller
    a hummer
    a personal snowblower

Here I see more -
    fur coats
    runners with reflective gear
    Wii (in most homes, in the library, at work, at the afterschool program)
   

Another mystery

This picture was taken in the short period after all the leaves had fallen but before the first snow.

About a block from our house is a street that leads down to the fjord and the main road north out of town.  Just before you get there you pass this magnificent house, which is labeled Haraldsborg, although it is not the fortress from 900 years ago.  What is odd is that this house is on Baldersvej (Buttocks Street?), not on our street, Haraldsborgvej.  We have no idea about the house's history, but currently it seems to be a group home or maybe individual apartments.

Winter

It is definitely warmer, as you can tell by the clear roads and paths, but it was still chilly (below freezing).  This picture was taken on our street while cycling home from the library.

1 December

I still haven't heard much about St. Nicholas Day or St. Lucia, but the first of December in school was all fun.  Robin took a small gift to school, which was added to the class advent calendar and each day a different student gets to take a gift home.  The class will have secret nisser/elves, which is a new concept to my kids.  The good news is that she can leave the gift by his cubby instead of figuring out which tall, lanky boy with short hair wearing a bjorn sweatshirt is the one she is assigned.  Arlo's class has an advent calendar made by their big buddies and each day they burn part of the advent calendar.  They will bring in a small gift just before Christmas vacation and have some sort of party.  In a few weeks the whole school will go to the cathedral to sing carols and to hear the Christmas story (no sermon), although it is not mandatory.

Meeting Denmark

Our event hosted by relocare

The Danish government has done research showing that it has been losing money because it invests in new hires only to have the people leave before the government's investment is returned.  Their solution has been to increase activities for expats and hold seminars to teach people about Danes and how to adapt.

Our family was invited to a two-day seminar in Køge.  Here is my first hint for the government.  Hold the meeting in an easier-to-pronounce place so that when Danes ask where I am going I don't have to mumble or stutter, have them say the correct pronunciation, repeat it, and have them laugh.  I suggest Vig or Lund.  How hard could those be to pronounce?


The first leg of our trip was also a challenge.  We arrived at the station in the blowing snow and sub-freezing temperatures to find that our train had been cancelled.  I was concerned because in Denmark a meeting is said to start at a specific time, that is what they mean.  On the other hand, if you call and tell them your train is cancelled, they understand.


The kids were excited to take a taxi to the hotel (because we were late) and to learn that the nanny was young, energetic, and had brought her netbook.  One highlight for the adults was meeting the other expats from Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Russia, Iran, Italy, and China.  Another highlight was having someone else cook for us!  We had a chance to have ris á l'amande, a rice pudding taken from the French.  Although it wasn't done at the hotel, it is traditional to hide a whole almond in one serving and the person who finds it receives a gift.

Typical hotel room in Køge

What seems normal to people here (and the Germans at the meeting) is that the hotel rooms had two single beds pushed together.  I don't need to get into my personal life, but it seems odd to me.

Walking to the beach (look carefully to see the flag)

No skinny dipping today

Even though the weather was not great for swimming (windy and -5C), we did take a walk to the beach.

Not only are there flags everywhere, there seem to be orphan bicycles everywhere, too.

If the course had been taught the first week we arrived it would have been more useful, but I was happy for the chance to see somewhere new, meet new people, and to be by the water.

A miracle!

At the end of the driveway we often have puddles, but since it has been so cold they are frozen solid.  Arlo was excited to be able to walk on them and declared that he can walk on water.  I have thought so all along.

Snow, glorious snow

This was taken in the morning, so imagine it after five more hours of snow.

Just the other day Arlo asked what a snowstorm was.  I defined it as being so much snow that when you finish shovelling your walk, it is time to do it again.  Lucky for him he got to experience it first hand.  We must have shovelled a dozen time in the last 24 hours!  Maybe we didn't have to shovel quite so much, but there was the novelty aspect having not had to shovel in over five years.

Photo by Arlo

Even the bike path plows couldn't keep up with the snow, and I was very proud that Robin was able to get herself to and from her Julemandens vaerksteder/Santa Claus workshop on public transportation.

Ooh - a Volvo bus!

More Christmas

Signs have been hanging outside the art room and woodworking room announcing that parents and siblings are forbidden from entering.  Not only are the children making gifts, they get to wrap them and use a wax seal to make sure no one has peeked.

It is not event without coffee.  This time of year peppernodder (very small cinnamon and cardamom shortbread cookies not shown) are served, too.

Today the art room was open to all so traditional decorations could be made.  Some people brought fancy candles, but I used the one provided, which made for a nice Thanksgiving decoration.

My creation (Arlo was downstairs playing Wii)

A country of meat eaters

Can you imagine a class of American nine-year-olds being taken to a game preserve, having a deer killed for them, having the deer skinned in front of them, and then bringing back the skull, skin, and a couple feet?  It sounds a bit like the digression in a Tom Lehrer song.  You may remember an earlier post showing the people at the after-school program dealing with the skin.

Now the skin is dried and is hanging in the entry way with helpful labels showing where the bullet went in and where it came out.  There is also a full set of photos as reminders of the field trip.  Just like the self-serve wine sampling station, I don't see this tradition making its way to the U.S.

Did I mention that a very kind woman, a woman who works at a university in Copenhagen, said I was the first vegetarian she had met?

Jul

I am not sure why marzipan pigs are part of the tradition here, but it may be related to the days when a family's wealth was related to the size of its pig.  You can also buy marzipan logs so you can make your own pigs or other treats.

A little more snow

The seven-day forecast does not show it going above freezing, but one day at a time we are doing just fine.  Here you can see that the bike paths were cleared first.

It is dark on the way to school.

Rosenborg Slot

To the left you might be able to see the changing of the guard

We were excited to visit a real castle today.  We were amazed by the throne room, which looks just like you would see in a picture book.  A clock that tells the time, season, and astronomical information played a wonderful song and we even saw a royal high chair.  In a basement vault we saw the intricate crown of Christian IV and the crown jewels.  Outside the grounds have been turned into a public garden, but we decided we would enjoy exploring the area in spring.

First snow

It was wonderful and exciting, especially since there wasn't quite enough to shovel.

Our backyard

More alcohol

Will this be at Trader Joe's soon?  Today I saw a self-serve wine sampling booth at the grocery store.

Drugs and Alcohol

Our town has two pharmacies.  When the doctor wants to prescribe something electronically she sends it to both and you pick up your medicine at the location of your choice.  The cashier scans your card, which brings up the prescription, and by the time she turns around your medicine has been picked up with a robotic arm and dropped into the chute right behind her.  You can even watch on the closed-circuit television.

There is very little over-the-counter medicine (children's acetaminophen, nyquil), but the pharmacy sells items like lotion, throat lozenges, and facial tissues.  When I visited the pharmacy this week there were Christmas decorations (no surprise) and little bottles of Christmas schnapps (surprise).  I think this could be a marketing idea to take back to the U.S.

Good health

At David's institute they believe in preventative health care.  Each day each department receives a fruit basket and employees are supposed to eat a piece of their choice (I think the pineapple is an unusual addition).

Mystery

A few blocks from our house is the main road north from the center of town, which has two lanes for vehicles, a bicycle lane on each side, and a walkway next to that.

Recently some black, plastic somethings were placed along the bushes that separate the bike lane from the traffic.  Are these to protect the bushes from the salt on the road?  To prevent the plows from damaging them?  Will there really be enough snow for plows?

UK

And now for something completely different.

One highlight of our trip was the lack of complaining from our kids about the weather.  If we had come from L.A. where it is sunny and warm it would have been a problem, but since the weather in London is dark and damp like Denmark, the kids took it in stride.

Another highlight of the trip was our hostel.  We were able to get a family room, which meant two sets of bunk beds and our own bathroom.  Wii was available in the main lobby any time no one was watching a rugby match, so at 7 a.m. Arlo was entertained allowing Robin to sleep or read.  The kitchen was clean and fully stocked (minus an oven, which we learned after buying a pizza at a grocery store a few blocks away).  The staff answered our endless stream of questions and even sorted through their change to help add to Arlo's growing coin collection, including the Shield of Royal Arms set.

It was great to visit London without the jet lag.  We arrived, took our stuff to the hostel, and headed over to the London Eye.  With discount tickets from the hostel we were able to skip the queue, but we did see the 4-D movie (was the fourth dimension time since it took a while to watch it?  or should we assume it was the wind, the bubbles, and fog?).  When we finally made it onto the Eye the sun was just setting, which was great.  We were able to enjoy the view in the daylight initially and also evening views with all the lights later.  We even saw some fireworks, which were for delayed Guy Fawkes Night celebrations.

We enjoyed time with friends and visited the Tate Britain and Tate Modern and took the boat between the two.  We spent an entire day with a friend at the Science Museum followed by a fantastic dinner at a vegetarian Indian restaurant.  By now we were getting our fill of museums, but we did have a little time in the British Museum.  Arlo was excited to hold a coin from 400 B.C. and we all saw the Rosetta Stone, which is the same shape as our computer language program's icon.  The bad news was that we got lost leaving the museum, but the good news was that we found the Oxfam used book store and a place to buy fish and chips, minus the fish.

We had a received a tip to take the bus instead of the Underground, but were skeptical.  We gave it a try and were completely won over.  We saw many places we weren't going to visit this time and got to see the lights above Regent Street.  If we hadn't taken the bus we would never had known there was an Apple store (THE same one mentioned by Steve Jobs in his recent talk) near the seven-storey toy store.  Visiting Hamleys and the Apple store made us feel like we were on vacation, especially when Robin got to be among the first to try the new Xbox Kinect.

We wrapped up our trip with a visit to Trafalgar Square (no more pigeons!!) and a production of The Lion King.  It was sad and scary, but not like anything we had seen before.

I'll confess that one my favorite parts of the trip was being able to read the headlines on papers as we walked by a store.  We had little conversations with random people and we could understand everything people said to us. But it is good to be home, too.

p.s.  If you are interested in more pictures let me know and I'll send you a link.